Friday, January 31, 2014

Description Grade 12 woodworking projects

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Grade 12 Woodworking Projects

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Description Easy weekend woodworking projects

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Thursday, January 30, 2014

Best Woodworking projects you can sell

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woodworking ideas for kindergarten

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Wednesday, January 29, 2014

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Shelby Wood's Mugshot from Knoxville


Shelby Wood's Mugshot from Knoxville

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Brixx Wood Fired Pizza, West Hills (Knoxville, TN) -- Businesses in

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Norwegian Wood, Bob Dylan Birthday Bash, Market Square, Knoxville


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Kitchen table woodworking plans free

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 wood, take a peek at the solid walnut wood table by Eric Manigian


wood, take a peek at the solid walnut wood table by Eric Manigian

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Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Making A New Turning Saw Part II


Well, I shouldnt have been so overly optimistic about how much I would get done in Part II. I did make some progress, but Im no where near finished. What else is new?

I started on the stretcher: cutting the curve with my remaining turning saw (the one that was supposed to replace the prototype, but which I dont enjoy that much), truing the curve with a round sole spokeshave, removing the old finish with a jack plane, and beveling the edges with both round and flat sole spokeshaves. Here are a few shots of the results:






I didnt finish the arms of the frame, which Salaman refers to as "cheeks", but I did get them roughed out with the saw:



The inside curve was awkward, but I found a way to get at it. And sawing while kneeling on the floor was kinda fun...


And finally, heres a shot of the saw so far:


Its still a little chunky, and a bit on the heavy side, but I think the final shaping will take care of both of those problems.


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A Dedicated Sharpening Bench part 4

Dimensioning Frame Stock

I mentioned in the first post that Im using some off the shelf hardwood for the bench frame; this was great for my budget but not ideal for my hand tools. Because it was dimensioned at the mill (and I use that term very loosely) I have to re-dimension it all again before I can start laying out my joinery. Theyre definition of square must be a little different than mine!
The Ipe is an extremely dense South American hardwood and is very unforgiving to hand tools- perfect irony isnt it? Here I am making a new sharpening bench and the wood species Im using is ripping the edges off of my plane irons so fast that Im going back and forth to my old sharpening area being reminded with each pass how much Im looking forward to having this new one! Some strange motivation I suppose?
With that I begin planing and dimensioning, sharpening and planing some more. The reverse grain is very unusual in this species, its tones and weight are similar to teak but the dust coming off of it is Kermit the frog green...If youre ever using Ipe with power tools make sure you wear a mask! Im finding the small amount of dust coming off while hand planing a little irritating to my nose and throat. When I have all of the frame components cross cut to length (including joinery) and all surfaced, I can begin my layout.

Whenever possible I like to lay out my joinery in groupings ie: the legs get clamped together and the mortises for the cross stretchers are laid out together. This will help keep things consistent and insure continuity between the pieces. I use a pencil to mark off the thickness of each component and then a deep scribe line with my knife for the joinery.

Mortise and Tenons

All of the joinery for the bench frame is mortise and tenon except the front legs into the top apron by way of the slip joint.(refer back to part 3) The Ipe is close to 1 1/2" square so Ill follow the rule of thirds and lay out 1/2" mortises. I begin at the top of the back legs where they meet the bench top. I saw a tenon into the rear leg tops and chop out the mating mortises. Over in my shoulder vise I get out my favourite back saw and make some dust. You may notice in the pictures my set up for sawing the tenons- I hold them in the tail vise and have my bench hook next to it on my bench top. This is an efficient set up when you have a lot of tenons to cut. I start by ripping down the two cheeks and then turn the workpiece and rip the other two shoulder cuts. Then its a simple matter of unclamping and sawing at the bench hook without ever having to take a step. Ill get both tenons cut and then back into the tail vise to pare down to the scribe lines.






















Ive heard some woodworkers say you should saw right to your scribe lines and I suppose in a perfect world this is true. I unfortunately live a few blocks East of a perfect world so I try to leave a bit of material to pare away to. This is especially true on the cross cuts where I want a crisp shoulder line.

















With the tenons cut Ill forget that measuring tapes were ever invented and use the actual work piece to lay out my mortises. Again, I begin with a pencil and mark out my perimeter and follow with a knife line to determine the actual mortise size.




























I begin with a brace and bit and bore out the bulk of the material. These are relatively shallow, stub tenons so I trust my eye and bore down into the oak. For deeper tenons Ill wrap a piece of tape around the bit to show me the finished depth and for really special work pieces Ill actually make up a wooden collar that slips over the bit creating a built in depth stop. But as mentioned, today Im using my eyes.

From there Ill use my mortising chisel to chop off the little wings left between auger bit holes and square up the ends. Ill clean out the bottom and get ready for a dry fit. The brace and bit method of cutting mortises is a fast and accurate method but I should also mention when you first lay out the mortise its a good idea to scribe in a center line. This will give a point of reference for the bit to find center when drilling. The first dry fit shows me that I need to remove a little meat off of the tenon. This is another one of those wood working myths- tenons dont have to look pretty! I know we see them in our favourite woodworking magazines, all crispy and shining like a new dime but really-?
They do need to be straight and they really should be square but besides that they can be as rough as you make em. Keeping that in mind I use a rasp to trim the tenons.






















Its fast and easy and all of those scratch marks left behind will actually make for a better glue joint. Another dry fit and its on to the next one.


The bench now has four legs standing proudly, although still inverted on my bench top- I decide to address the bottoms of the legs and the feet. Its a natural progression, but I dont give the sequence too much thought. I suppose you could cut all of the legs first and then move onto all of the stretchers... I enjoy watching a work piece come together and at the end of my work day I like to see what Ive accomplished. So I started with the legs and then onto the feet; at least Ill be able to stand the bench upright and get a sense of where things are going for tomorrow!

The process of cutting the mortise and tenons throughout the frame is pretty much the same system as described above. Pencil to scribe lines and then bore out the waste and.....whats that? The wood? Too hard?
Oh yeah, I almost forgot- the crazy-dense exotic wood from South America proved to be a little too hard for my auger bit so I wasnt able to remove the waste like I did in the Oak. Imagine, the quarter sawn white oak in the bench top is actually the friendlier softer wood! Thats saying a lot.
So instead of removing the waste with my brace and bit I resort to the crashing and bashing of the mortise chisel. It actually went pretty quickly. As hard as this wood is, it works pretty well and while chopping across the grain for the mortises, I exploited the brittle under tones of the Ipe. The tenons were done as described and before I knew it the legs and the feet are complete...at least for tonight. Next time Ill shape the feet and finish the frame. Stay tuned.

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Monday, January 27, 2014

The Carrot and The Stone


I dont know ... The big carrot and the big stone kind of go together in my head ... Unrelated, but related in a way too .... Both from the soil somehow .... We were getting ready for dinner Friday night and Kit came in from the garden kind of chuckling with a carrot in her hand ... Its November and weve still got a few left in the ground. This one was pretty good .... We cut it up and had it with our pasta and actually had some left over, if you can believe it ... It takes a village for a carrot like that one ...

And then, today, Pete and Asa, our brother-in-law and nephew came by with a stone that Pete had given to Kit as a birthday present hmmm ... 4? ... 5? years ago. We cant remember when and though we cant remember why (it must have been cause she did something special for him) though Im thinking now it might have been Kits 50th which was actually 7 years ago. We have talked about it every year since... thinking it might go here, thinking it might go there, but it wasnt until this year that we decided where, and I finally, actually, dug a hole. It was a perfect day for it today, sunny and 50, blue sky, fall air, and all went smoothly. Beer and pizza after ... Nice afternoon and the rock is a great addition to the front of the house ... Click the pictures to enlarge them ...

The site

The rock and tractor arriving .. Pete of Peter Moore Masonry supervising and Asa, his son, driving ... Its schist, from a quarry in Chester, Vermont ... We picked it a long time ago from Petes field where he has a number of them available for clients ...

Getting it into position for the tip up

One end in the hole

Upright ... We had some trouble getting it totally upright, (its a pretty heavy rock) and Sam had the bright idea to hook onto it with the pickup and a rope and tip it to vertical so we could reposition the forks and straps, relift it and dig under it where necessary ..

The smiling crew awaiting the pizza and beer

Like its always been there

Get your own ... call Pete
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FINISHING SECRETS UPDATE

The Real Deal; this time...

O.k. so the phony headline on the last post was a little mis-leading. You thought you were going to find out some top-secret finishing techniques I have locked away in some old turn of the century wood working encyclopedias, but no, you only got a mellow-dramatic tale of one small Block Planes journey through wood life in my shop.
I felt pretty bad after hearing from the countless readers who wanted the Real Truth behind my wood finishing procedures. What follows is my advice to you; my secret finishing techniques revealed, with a detailed diagram for a unique and truly state-of-the-art Sanding Aid. I urge you to try this technique on some scrap wood first and then let yourself become comfortable with this method. I dont expect anything in return for this information but please, work safely at a pace that is comfortable for you.

Proper Wood Finishing

The first step in fine wood finishing is to go out and buy yourself the nicest Smoothing Plane you can possibly afford. Sharpen it like theres no tomorrow and take a light pass over all show surfaces of the piece in question. Make sure to overlap each pass slightly. Once this step is complete follow with a cabinet scraper, taking care to watch for tiny tear-out in the wood fibres from the last step. When you feel the heat building up in the card scraper, stop. Put it aside because Id really hate to hear that you burnt the tips of your fingers. Now the secret weapon; the Sanding Aid that will change the way you think and work with wood. Ill include specific dimensions at the end of this post. The Sanding Block. An approximately two and a half inch squared piece of hardwood, ( I used Oak for mine ) take this small off cut and reach down onto the floor of your shop. Scoop up a handful of shavings left over from the Smoothing plane earlier. Place the pile of shavings on the work piece and compress it down with the block of hardwood. Rub vigorously around for as long as you can stand it and step back. Look at the gleam rising out of the wood grain! Incredible isnt it. I usually follow this step with an oil and varnish hand rubbed finish. Amazing eh?
So the specs...about 2 1/2" squared.
Cheers.
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Sunday, January 26, 2014

Furnishing the Penultimate Shop

I’ve called this web log The Penultimate Woodshop because that’s what I feel I’m constructing. I know I’ll never be done and have the ultimate woodshop so I’m figuring that if I can achieve my penultimate shop, I’ll be in good shape (yes, even that may be an unrealistic goal). I would like to begin by sharing some of the shop projects I’ve completed and some which are still on the drawing board.

Completed (or at least in use) shop projects:
These projects are currently in use in my shop. Most are finished.

Vacuum Boom Arm: I built this quickly from some scrap 3/8” plywood and two butt hinges. It’s mounted to the wall above my workbench. I have a premium Ridgid vacuum hose and an extension cord permanently mounted to it. The hose runs behind and under the workbench. When I’m using it, I plug the hose into my Festool CT22 dust extractor which lives next to the bench. The extension cord is either plugged into the wall or the CT22, depending on whether I want tool actuated vacuuming or not. In practice this quick item has worked even better than expected. It keeps my shop dust free and all the cords out of the way like a charm.

Slide Out Storage Cabinet: This quick cabinet came together after viewing a similar item on the Grizzly website. I almost broke down and bought theirs until I realized that their side accessed slide our racks would use up the adjoining wall space and not save me any room. I built my cabinet so that all five slide out compartments pull out from the front. Currently that allows me to hang cords and hoses on the sides. Ultimately, it will let me install additional cabinets immediately next to it.

Drawer Box Stack: This is a quick frame to support four TaskForce mid-drawer units I picked up on the cheap from Lowe’s. I’m currently storing everything from planes to pencils in the drawers. As my only complaint about this unit is that it’s too small in the future I need to better organize these drawers and either buy more of the TaskForce units or make some custom ones of my own.

Rolling Drill Press Bench with Storage: This is the only cabinet that survived the move from my old house & shop. The others just didn’t fit. This cabinet has Lee Valley metal drawers on the front and two shelves on the back. It was originally designed as a stand for my drill press. While the drill press still rests on top, it now must share the space with my 12” sliding compound miter saw. Needless to say neither can be used when they share this bench. As the shop progresses, this will be replaced or cannibalized into other cabinets.

Future Shop Projects:
My future projects approach delusions of grandeur. I’m looking forward to building them and I hope they make interesting content for this web log.

Insulation and Sheathing: I plan to insulate the walls with polyisocyanurate insulation and sheath the inside faces with 3/4” T&G OSB. That will get me an R value of 40 and rock solid walls I can attach anything too.

Workbench: I’ve been converted to the workbench religion by Chris Schwarz. I’m experimenting with various materials (Timberstand, pre-made finger joint panels, LVL’s) and plan to ultimately build a cross between Megan Fitzpatrick’s Gluebo Workbench and Bob Lang’s 21st Century workbench. I also plan to incorporate many work holding elements into my miter saw bench for more options.

Miter Saw Bench: I’m a miter saw lover. I have a decade old DeWalt 12” sliding dual compound miter saw. As I need to place it against the wall in my new (yeah, 2 years on I still call it that) shop I’m contemplating replacing the DeWalt with the Festool Kapex KS 120, Makita LS1016 10-inch Dual Bevel Sliding Miter Saw or the new Bosch GCM12SD 12" Axial-Glide Miter Saw. In the end the unit which lets me place it closest to the wall will win (probably). The miter saw bench may be built of torsion boxes, but will most likely be made of solid wood like an actual workbench. I’m also planning to add work holding features (such as a crochet and some sort of face vice) so that it can do double duty as a long workbench when I swing the saw handle out of the way.

Flip Up Planer Stand: I have a DeWalt 13” lunch box planer, which I really like. In the completed shop it will either live behind my table saw or (more likely) under my miter saw bench. Regardless of which location wins out, I’ll have to make a flip stand for it so that it can rotate to be on the stand or hang within the stand. That way it’ll fit under the table saw table or miter saw bench.

Plastic Storage Case Drawer Unit: I use lots of plastic suitcase style cases for my fasteners. I like the portability of the suitcase style for projects outside the shop and the lids keep everything dust free. My problem with them is that I never have the open counter space in the woodshop to pull out a case and open it without burying something else. I plan to make a custom drawer unit which will store the suitcase style cases on drawers. When closed they’ll all sit in a nice stack and I can open a drawer and then lift the lid of the suitcase container while it rests on the open drawer. If I need it out of the woodshop, I can just lift the suitcase style case up and carry it off.

Those are some of the projects I’ve either already build or have floating around in my head. As they get built and turn into reality, I’ll share the process.

What have you built for your wood shop? What do you want to build for it?
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A Short Video Tour of Dorset Custom Furniture

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Dorset Custom Furniture from Junction 133 on Vimeo >.

">A Video Tour of Dorset Custom Furniture

Heres a very brief visual and oral history of Dorset Custom Furniture. Weve been working on it for a while now and it was harder than I thought. What to include? What to cut? .. a whole new process ... Duncan Lake of Junction 133 Productions got it all together for us. Hes been a friend of Sam and Wills for a long time and did a great job ... Hes back at his day job for the season now, videoing snowboarders out west ... Looks like fun ...

ps ... this video shows best if you click it to full screen
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Music Stand Hardware


Sam recently made some hardware for a music stand that his friend Josh made. It allows the height and the angle of the music both to be adjusted. The ball on the bottom of the height rod adds some weight and stability to the tripod base as a bonus feature. Nice design and execution I thought. The stand itself is made from yellow pine and purpleheart; also a nice design and execution.
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Saturday, January 25, 2014

Karlstad Sofa with Nailhead Trim


Doesnt my sofa look so much classier now? I love how nailhead can make an Ikea sofa look higher end (not high end, but higher :)

Yesterday, I shared my tips on how to apply nailhead, since the sofa is made of a plethora of different plywoods, not all of the nails went in the same, so I had to remove more than usual, but about an 1.5 hours later I was finished!





Due to the padding on the side, I couldnt get as close to the edge as I would of liked ...


and a little preview of our not so exciting light in the office area ... dont worry, I have a new one to swap it with :)

Hopefully, I can make some final decisions on the cane chair this weekend ... Im being indecisive!

Happy Friday, hope you have a great weekend! 


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